Ukraine exceeded all of my expectations. Especially Kyiv.
Hot, sweaty afternoons. Fresh cherries sold on the street. Tickets to the opera for $15. Cathedrals with ornate, golden altars. Stunning murals. And then, there was the heartbreak. Images of all of recently killed soldiers pasted on a city wall. A long walk around Chernobyl. Elderly women asking for money in the street.
Kyiv is vibrant, gritty, and unforgettable.
Here were my favorite parts.
Sleeping Beauty At The National Opera of Ukraine
In my experience, one of the best ways to experience a city is to experience it’s local theater. I saw Phantom of the Opera in Budapest, The Mousetrap in London, and Chicago in New York. But none of them were as magical as a trip to the National Opera in Kyiv, Ukraine.
I attended a performance of Sleeping Beauty which was, despite an extremely rude tourist, sublime. The ticket I purchased was only $15, and I was in the front of the theater.
(It’s never cool to record a show, ever.)
Volodymyrska St, 50, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01030
Taking A Day Tour To Chernobyl
I was conflicted about whether or not to visit Chernobyl. Finally, I decided to book a tour via Airbnb, which was pricey, but definitely worth having a smaller tour group. Like many others who have visited disaster sites, there are disrespectful people you’ll have to endure, but in the end it was worth it.
(This is not the place to do the “I’m flying!” pose from Titanic, people. Don’t be so tacky.)
You’ll see an old Soviet spy tower, get very limited access to the inside of some buildings, and witness how the wilderness is reclaiming the town of Pripyat. You can also read the travel essay I wrote about visiting Chernobyl as a Ukrainian.
Chernobyl Exclusion Zone, Ivankiv Raion, Northern Kiev Oblast, Ukraine
Finding The Volodymyrska Hill Overlook
I sought out to find a sculpture park and instead, found this gorgeous overlook.
(Not my first time with accidental tourism.)
Located around the block from St. Andrew’s Cathedral, this lovely overlook is also near a street market. At the market, you’ll find vendors selling nesting dolls, embroidered purses, and original artwork.
I purchased a painting depicting the Ukrainian countryside at dusk and snagged my brother a Soviet-Era wristwatch.
Volodymyrs’kyi descent, 1, Kyiv, Ukraine, 02000
Discovering Murals and Street Art
I’m a sucker for a good mural (aspiring painter here.) And Kyiv has a lot of them. You can go on an actual street art tour or merely wander, which is how I found the Revival mural.
It’s actually quite famous, but of course, I found it because I was lost and trying to find an ATM.
Poetic, right?
Borychiv Tik St, 33/6А, Kiev, Ukraine
Finding Markets
There are plenty of pop-up markets in Ukraine – but not the type of pop-up you’re thinking. The eclectic Brooklyn/Austin hipster aesthetic is noticeably absent from Ukraine.
And while sure, you’ll find the occasional coffee shop, most of what you’ll experience in Kyiv is authentic.
I’m talking local shops, bakeries, and of course, streets with local people selling fresh fruit, vegetables, and tourist trinkets.
(That being said, if you do want a hipster coffee joint, I recommend The Journalist.)
Hanging With Elena & Anna, My Hosts
When I decided to go to Kyiv, I knew I wanted a killer host. I went through a lot of Airbnb reviews and listings until I found Elena. I got a good vibe and booked a private room in her flat.
And she and her daughter, Anna, exceeded my expectations in every way. They welcomed me into their home, made me authentic Ukrainian breakfasts, and gave me every tip and trick I needed to make my visit to Kyiv great.
You can book Anna’s spot yourself on Airbnb. Send her my best.
Almost Passing Out At St. Sophia’s Cathedral
Sometimes, you meet other tourists at popular spots and sparks fly. You just hit it off. There’s a connection.
This is not what happened to me at St. Sophia’s Cathedral. Instead, I went up in the bell tower (a large, looming structure with a large hole in the middle.) The walkway was narrow, which is fine, unless you’re afraid of heights. Which I am. A suave Italian tourist asked if I wanted my photo taken, I mumbled something that wasn’t words, and started shaking and sweating.
THERE WAS JUST SUCH A BIG DROP, GUYS.
I’m pretty sure he thought I was possessed.
But the actual grounds and cathedral is lovely. You can buy a ticket and see everything or just get a ticket to select spots.
Volodymyrska St, 24, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01001
The slightly anxious, thrilling feeling I got up in that tower was the perfect metaphor for my time in Kyiv. Scared? Unsure? Intimidated? Cool. Just go for it.
If you’re considering your own visit to Kyiv before the tourist masses flood in, now is the time. Thanks to HBO’s Chernobyl series, Ukraine’s tourism numbers are rapidly increasing.