"Excuse me," I anxiously ask the bartender, forcing a friendly smile.
"Do you have Wi-Fi?"
After a few minutes of fumbling, we come to the realization that yes they do - and no, it doesn't work.
It's not a huge surprise. I'm in Leek, England, a small, remote town about three hours north of London. I'm about to hop on a call for work, and despite my best efforts (and multiple trips around the downtown), I can't find reliable internet anywhere.
Leek isn't exactly a travel destination. Outside of weddings, community events, and family breaks, it seems the biggest tourist/travel event to ever occur there was when Johnny Depp was in the area to film a movie.
Perhaps that's just my ignorance. I loved Leek, and I'm always really excited to stumble upon a new destination that hasn't already been mobbed with tourists, travel writers, and Lonely Planet.
But honestly, I didn't even find Leek myself. In fact, it was my friend (also named Melissa), who invited me there for her wedding.
With no other objective than to be a wedding guest, everything else I would discover in Leek was just a pleasant surprise.
For starters, the journey there was long. I flew into the Manchester airport, and then took two trains (and an Uber) to get to Leek.
So what would have been a 45 minute car drive was actually a nearly two hour adventure, which I actually didn't really mind.
It was raining for most of the journey. I was surprised to find a prompt to sign on to one train's WiFi, and which went in and out. I closed my computer for the duration, and lazily watched as the train zoomed through meadows and neighborhoods.
I couldn't help but think of my previous trip to England before, about three years prior. I had stayed in England for a few weeks back then, first, in a small house in Marlow. I house-sat with Old Mike (ex-boyfriend that gets a reference now and then in these old stories.)
We spent a lot of time wandering the village, cooking, and working remotely from our computers. I remember we talked about going to feed donkeys at a local farm, perhaps oversized carrots or apples.
I don't believe we ever did.
We broke up instead, and I left Marlow for Atherstone, a small town a little more North. Through the luck of the Internet and TrustedHouseSitters.com, I found a gig house-sitting for a grey, grumpy cat named Raisins, while his family was vacationing in Florida.
So for a week and a half, I lost myself in Atherstone, working and exploring the small town, and doing off-beat things such as attending a Zumba class, checking out the local library, and attending a church service.
I even found my way to The Goodwood Revival (though that's another story completely, and I'm getting slightly off topic.)
But the activities went beyond wanting to be drifty. I was aching with loneliness when I was in Atherstone, and filled any free time with some kind of activity to busy my mind. I felt incredibly anxious, a new feeling for me when traveling, (and it wouldn't be the last time.)
And in a weird, Universe twisting kind of way, two years later, when the trip to Leek and Melissa's wedding approached, I was in another weird, lonely romantic predicament. Upon leaving the States, I found myself on pause with a complicated fling back home, agreeing that we'd "figure things out" when I got back.
So a bit distracted, between my own romantic turmoil and the wedding, I didn't expect much from Leek. I was heading to Porto after this leg of the trip, then Paris. With them in my sights, I didn't plan anything or have ideas of what to do in the small, quaint village.
I like to say that each place I visit teaches me something, and I always discounted England in that. During my visits, despite cool things I found, I always felt tremendously unhappy or anxious. However, by the end of my stay in Leek, I realized something.
I had a great time there.
And literally every single time I had ever visited England, I learned something new about myself and my singleness. Since my last visits, I had grown, a lot. I wasn't scared to be alone anymore, but I was ready for something serious - no more silly flings.
So upon leaving Leek, a quiet, sleepy town, I had a new appreciation for tea, vintage goods, and who I felt I was. After seeing one of my oldest friends marry, I also understood what I was really looking for from love.
That being said, here's the Drifty Guide to all things Leek, with a few personal tidbits here and there (mostly for dramatic effect.)
Things To Do and See
Drive By The Ashes Barns and Country House
Obviously, you can't just pick up and go to a wedding in England. However, the venue that Melissa and Aaron got married at, The Ashes Barns and Country House, is one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited.
The wedding itself was perfection - I definitely get what all the Meagan and Harry hooplah was about. Melissa and Aaron's wedding was exactly what you'd imagine a charming English wedding to be like, tiny adorable British toddlers, floral bouquets that could have been picked from nearby fields, and a beautiful, blushing bride (that's you, Suki.)
At one point, I even wandered off during the wedding and found a field with some horses prancing around. So while it's important to note this is a wedding venue (so don't drop in and think it's going to be cool), the area surrounding the venue is absolutely gorgeous - and worth a long, lazy drive.
Leek Rd, Endon, Stoke-on-Trent ST9 9AX, UK
Wander Through Leek Butter and Trestle Market
This large indoor and outdoor market, located in the village of Leek, has a TON of awesome things to look at. Before the wedding, I spent an hour or so looking through books, smelling flowers, and drooling over all the English antiques.
My one regret was not anticipating how good the market was - if I had room in my luggage (that I wasn't saving for tile in Portugal), I would have absolutely stocked up on tiny little jewelry boxes, artwork, and glass jars. I ended up buying one of the jewelry boxes for Melissa, actually.
Wednesday, Friday & Saturday: 9:00 - 17:00.
Leek Markets, Market Place, Leek, Staffordshire, ST13 5HH
Check Out Titanic Brewery
In such a quaint little romantic town, you might discount a place like a brewery. However, if you have an afternoon to burn, an English brewery might be the ticket. Only a twenty minute drive from Leek, Titanic Brewing has a huge variety of beer, such as a Kolsch (which is my go-to,) and a lot of dark, hoppy, and lights to choose from.
You can also order a lot of their beers online.
Unit 5, Callender Pl, Stoke-on-Trent ST6 1JL, UK
Explore Tittesworth Reservoir
Done giggling? Good, because this is actually on my list of - do not miss if you're in Leek - spots. Melissa (not me, my friend) along with her family, Aaron (her husband), his family, and myself, ventured to the reservoir for a lovely afternoon stroll. We walked for what felt like miles through the countryside, even running into some pigs.
Like any park or preserved area, there's not one way to do it. We started at Tittesworth Water Visitor Centre and walked through a couple of hilly areas, eventually ending up near The Lazy Trout (pub I mentioned earlier.) Even the visitor's centre was lovely, with a small gift shop with dozens of children's toys.
The entire walk took around 2-3 hours with our large group, but was absolutely worthwhile. If I ever go back to Leek, I'll do it again.
At one point, I even stretched out in the grass and watched some clouds go by. It was so incredibly peaceful and relaxing, and luckily, captured in the photo above, taken by our friend, Christine.
Meerbrook, Leek ST13 8SW, United Kingdom
Visit Peak Wildlife Park
This little zoo is home to animals like meercats, lemurs, and even wallabies. Tickets are relatively cheap, making it a really great way to spend a couple of hours near Leek. Like any other zoo, they offer tours, as well as something they call "animal experiences", such as a behind the scenes actual visit with penguins.
The park is also extremely dedicated to preservation, and use a lot of green technology to keep the place up and running. It's one of many England-based companies dedicated to cutting down on the overuse of waste such as coffee cups, replacing them with more sustainable options.
Winkhill, Leek, ST13 7QR, 01538 308 880
Things To Eat and Drink
Misco's Chocolate
One afternoon, I went to Getliffe's Yard to explore. I found Misco's Chocolate and immediately got serious Chocolat vibes. So I ventured in and snagged some awesome little truffles. Everything in the shop is homemade, and the owner (I don't remember her name, forgive me) was incredibly kind and generally very pumped about chocolate. All good things.
Getliffe's Yard, 19 Derby St, Leek ST13 6HU, UK
Pronto Delicatessen
Europe (England especially) seems to have the whole "tiny adorable sandwich shop that also sells gourmet things" down. Pronto was no exception. I got a sandwich with mozzarella and tomato, and had a lazy daydream about leaving my life behind and moving to the town.
I could spend my days reading and writing, finding some cozy studio to live in. During the day, I could be Pronto's server, (since according to a sign on the door, they were looking for one.)
The entire time I was in Leek, I was pretty much pretending to be Juliette Binoche.
10 Sheep Market, Leek ST13 5HW, UK
Spout Brew House
Spout was really close to the inn I was staying at, and I went there a few times. Unfortunately, it was a holiday weekend (or something that requires weird hours,) so I only got to actually go there once. Every other time, they were closed.
Spout is huge, with a ton of small, cozy places to sit and read. Brightly colored walls, hardwood floors, quirky decor - it's pretty much everything you'd want or expect from a modern English coffee shop. They also have a ton of breakfast and dessert options, such as the quintessential avocado toast.
70 St Edward St, Leek ST13 5DL, UK
Lazy Trout
Lazy Trout isn't right in downtown Leek, but it's close by and really worth the drive. We went there (wedding crew) after a long, hot walk in the countryside. I got a glass of Prosecco (shout out to my former co-worker Gwynne who loves Prosecco,) and sat outside on their patio. It was kind of a magical way to spend an afternoon, at this picturesque little bar.
Meerbrook, Leek ST13 8SN, UK
The Roebuck
One night after all the wedding festivities died down, I decided to check out some pubs. First stop? The Roebuck - a big, yet cozy bar in downtown Leek. Going to bars alone is always a little awkward, so I always make sure that I bring my phone or a book to keep me occupied.
On this occasion, I brought my copy of Anna Karenina, grabbed a random Titanic Brewing beer, and quietly sat for an hour or so. It was pretty peaceful.
18 Derby St, Leek ST13 5AB, UK
The Quiet Woman Pub
Not going to lie - The Quiet Woman kind of sounds like a psychological thriller that perhaps, I should just write. The actual bar? It's pretty similar to the ones I've been to before in England, or at least, that's what I rationalized because of one really eerie thing - I could have sworn I had been there before.
I was so convinced actually, that I had been to Quietwoman, I started to Google the distance between Leek and Atherstone, as well as Marlow. Both towns were at least an hour and a half away, so there was no possible way. Still, Quietwoman had a really familiar vibe. It got so intense I eventually left, after sipping on a bourbon for a half hour or so.
73 St Edward St, Leek ST13 5DN, UK
Places To Stay
An Inn Like Silken Strand
Usually, I recommend a specific place to stay. Unfortunately, upon publication of this Drifty Guide, The Silken Strand, the inn I stayed at, had permanently closed. It's such a bittersweet feeling. I have extremely fond memories of the inn, such as their purple ceiling and black and white tile, or the narrow, creaky staircases.
I loved my little room, with a small double bed and window. Each night I was there, I went down to the bar and talked to the owner and his family about an array of things. They were very entertained by my quest for Wi-Fi (I apologized for bursting in earlier demanding it), and they even invited me to a family party.
They also hinted that yes, Johnny Depp had stayed there when he was filming, though it seems like there's not any clear documentation or proof of that online. So I can't prove it, but like to think we both walked the same halls.
When I leave a place, I always encapsulate it in my memories. With the exception of Iceland, I don't like to go to the same place twice. Maybe deep down, I'm afraid I'll encounter something like this - a lovely inn that I have fuzzy feelings about closing, making it impossible to return to such a happy memory and meaningful time of my life.
Nevertheless, there's a lot of other inns to choose from and new memories to make. A few of them include Peak Weavers, where my friend Melissa stayed, The Overton Bank House, or The Green Man Guest House.
A Cozy Attic Apartment
I usually opt for the Airbnb over the local inn, but I honestly loved Silken Strand and would probably choose an inn again. If that's not your thing, however, I did my Airbnb magic and found some pretty nice places to stay around Leek.
This little apartment, for instance, is pretty much what I imagined when I thought about starting over ala Chocolat and fleeing America for a quiet, low-key English lifestyle.
Wherever you choose (and I expect this mindset to expand to inns), the English are something they call "house proud", which means they pride themselves in neat, tidy, immaculate homes. If you're choosing to stay in Leek or any other small English town, I'd place priority on what part of town you'd like to stay in, where there's local transportation, or whether or not you want to rent a car.
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